Owen Gleiberman Chief Film Critic “Unfrosted,” the first movie directed by Jerry Seinfeld (who also stars in it), is an agreeably flaked-out piece of surrealist vaudeville.
It’s a comedy about the creation of the Pop-Tart, back in 1963. That makes it sound like part of the new wave of mass-market product biopics — movies like “Flamin’ Hot” (about the creation of Spicy Cheetos), “Blackberry” (about the invention of the smart phone), and the one I think of as the “Citizen Kane” of the genre, “The Founder,” with Michael Keaton as Ray Kroc, the man who changed the world by taking over and franchising McDonald’s.
These films all speak to a time — ours — when consumer products haven’t just taken on a life of their own. They’ve become part of our identities. “Unfrosted,” however, is not like those other films.
While broadly based in reality, the entire movie is a put-on, a wackazoid tall tale, a comedy that uses the breakfast wars as the jumping-off point for a high-camp exercise in nostalgic lunacy.
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