‘The Bear’ Is at Its Very Best With ‘Forks,’ a Sensitive Spotlight on Cousin Richie
variety.comDaniel D'Addario Chief TV Critic On the second season of “The Bear,” FX’s breakout restaurant drama, each character gets a moment to shine.
But few seize it with quite such abandon as Richie. As played by Ebon Moss-Bachrach, Richie spent much of the first season at top volume and vein-popping intensity, perennially there to remind Carmy (Jeremy Allen White) of the chaos in the restaurant’s kitchen, and to add to it.
Which makes him an unlikely candidate to train, for a period, at a true fine-dining restaurant, but so he does. Much as Marcus (Lionel Boyce) flies to Copenhagen to apprentice as a high-level pastry chef, so too does Richie “stage” in an upscale Chicago this show hadn’t yet shown us, so that he may learn the essentials of service.
His path is bumpy, but Richie gets the hang of it: A moment of triumph comes when he passes along the information that a table is eager to try Chicago-style deep-dish pizza.
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