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Dowling’s at the Carlyle: This revived old-school haunt has Big Dining Energy

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last worked at the now-dead “21” Club. The best dishes on his French and American menu include rich, spicy lobster bisque; a plump pumpkin-ricotta raviolo; and mouthwatering, tableside-flamed steak Diane.

Lunchtime chicken paillard, pounded near paper-thin and topped with fontina cheese, was indeed as tasty as it looked to my neighbor.But spiced Colorado lamb shank was twice dry for my taste, a cut of Faroe Islands salmon miserly and mediocre, and salt-baked Branzino chewy and over-soaked in lemon butter after floor-flaming.

Dinner appetizer prices from $22 to $30 and entrees from the high $30s to $80 deserve more consistency.And the floor spectacle needs work.

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