In a genre heavy on outright gastroporn, Abby Ainsworth's polished documentary on Spain's celebrated Mugaritz restaurant inspires more curiosity than hunger.
By Guy Lodge Film Critic Popular gastronomy seems to come in two extreme flavors these days. At one end of the chicly underdressed table is the kind of easy-breezy, culturally scattered, make-it-your-own casual dining epitomised by Jamie Oliver and Alison Roman.
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