Vegan bodega butchers NYC’s meaty classics
using all-vegan ingredients — but the spurious sandwiches and sides wouldn’t fool a dead bodega cat.In the name of “bringing the natural world to your neighborhood,” it substitutes palate thrillers such as jackfruit (often compared with chewing gum) and seitan (don’t ask) for meat and cheese.Say this for owner/chef Jeremy Dean’s heretical heroes, which are priced from $8 to $14: the fresh bread from Brooklyn bakery Caputo’s whips the dry, dreary corner-deli article.But “plant-based comfort food” ranged from barely tolerable to intolerable.